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This came home to us most fully at our next destination, near Savelletri, on the coast about 60 miles north of Lecce. At the Masseria Torre Coccaro, an estate set among olive trees almost a millennium old, we found ourselves gathered around a pool, or by the sea with other families. It may not have been ideal for a honeymooning couple, but for us it was perfect, and once again there were friendly smiles. Soon Hugh was on dribbling terms with Maurizio, a two-year-old whose preferred mode of transport was a plastic pink toy motorcycle. Little Gianpaolo was another playmate. Had there been a baby girl there, no doubt we would have introduced Hugh and pretended that some infant romance was under way. Ah, how such antics would make the me of a year ago sick, sick, sick. Not anymore.
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