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In Botafumeiro, a fish restaurant in the old district of Barcelona, Moncho Neira, the head chef, reaches into a porcelain dish and examines the catch. He holds a handful of still-living gooseneck barnacles to his nose and breathes in the aroma deeply. ‘He who eats gooseneck barnacles not only has the delicious crustacean but also half the Atlantic on his plate,’ he says euphorically. ‘When cooked they set the palate in ecstasy.’
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